The Sierra de Tramuntana: The Mountainous Soul of Mallorca

The Sierra de Tramuntana —or Serra de Tramuntana, in Mallorcan— is much more than a mountain range that forms the backbone of north-western Mallorca: it is the spine of the island, its natural and cultural soul, the territory where stone, water and human ingenuity have coexisted for centuries in an almost miraculous balance. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011 in the category of Cultural Landscape, the Tramuntana represents the triumph of adaptation: that of man in the face of rugged terrain, and that of nature, which has managed to remain intact in the face of the onslaught of mass tourism.

From Andratx to Cape Formentor, the mountain range runs for nearly 90 kilometres along the coast and inland, combining steep cliffs that plunge into the Mediterranean, fertile valleys covered with orange trees, ancient olive groves and villages that seem frozen in time. Its 1,445 metres of Puig Major, the highest peak in the Balearic Islands, dominate a territory where the north wind — the tramontana that gives it its name — blows strongly and cleanses the air with a brilliance that has enchanted artists, travellers and dreamers for centuries.

The Geology of the Wind: An Alpine Massif and Emblematic Peaks

The origin of the Tramuntana dates back to the alpine fold of the Mesozoic era, a fact that underlines the timescale of its formation. This limestone massif, essentially an extension of the Baetic System, is home to the highest peaks in the Balearic Islands. Its most imposing peak is Puig Major (1,445 m), the highest mountain in Mallorca, closely followed by Puig de Massanella (1,364 m).

The altitude and limestone composition have given rise to a landscape of remarkable geological diversity. Karst areas are abundant, dotted with caves, deep chasms — such as the famous Cova de sa Campana (358 m) — and canyons. Among these, the Torrent de Pareis stands out as one of the most impressive natural wonders of the Mediterranean.

The Challenge of Sa Fosca and the Pareis Canyon

The confluence of the Sa Fosca canyon—world-renowned for its extreme difficulty for canyoning—with the Torrent de Lluch creates the spectacular Torrent de Pareis. The latter flows into the sea at a pebble cove with turquoise waters, flanked by vertical walls rising up to 300 metres.

---

The arrival at the mouth of the Torrent de Pareis, whether descending the rocky path from Sa Calobra or by sea, offers a ‘prodigious’ setting. The short beach looks like a window onto the Mediterranean, boxed in by the imposing cliffs that break up the massive mountain range.

In addition to the rock formations, the mountain range is home to Mallorca’s three large reservoirs: Cúber, Gorg Blau and the military reservoir of Puig Major, which are crucial for the island’s water management. The Cúber reservoir, surrounded by peaks, offers an easy circular hiking trail that allows you to observe the local wildlife, such as sheep and birds, in a haven of tranquillity.

Cultural Heritage: The Architecture of Survival

What truly distinguishes the Tramuntana as a World Heritage Site is the harmonious human intervention on a rugged territory. This landscape is the result of centuries of adaptation and tenacity, where man has tamed the mountain to make it productive.

The hallmark of this adaptation is dry stone (pedra en sec). Without mortar, the perfect fitting of stones has shaped elements that define the cultural landscape:

• Los Bancales (marges): Stepped terraces that bridge the slopes, creating a cultivable space for centuries-old olive trees, vineyards (such as the recovered Malvasía in Banyalbufar and Estellencs) and the ramellet tomato.
• Hydraulic Systems: Ancient irrigation systems, many of them originating in the Arab occupation of Mallorca, demonstrating the unique combination of Islamic and Western cultures.
• Ethnological constructions: Cobbled paths, carboneras (charcoal burners’ huts), lime kilns, casas de nieve (houses for storing snow and ice) and the emblematic Possessions (large rural estates).

The human impact has been so great that it has created a ‘different Mallorca’, a facet where nature intertwines with the architecture of survival. This laborious landscaping, which has enabled essential crops such as orange and carob trees to be grown, is the main reason for UNESCO’s recognition.

Watchtowers: The Pirate Legacy

The history of the Balearic coast in the 16th century was marked by pirate raids. For this reason, a defensive network of watchtowers and fortresses was erected along the coastline, such as the Torre del Verger and the Talaia d’Albercutx (the latter in the Cavall Bernat mountain range, offering privileged views of Cap de Formentor). These vestiges are must-see stops on any route through the mountains.

---

Archduke Luis Salvador: The First Protector

In the mid-19th century, one of the first visionaries to fall in love with this environment and seek its conservation was Archduke Louis Salvator of Austria (Ludwig Salvator von Österreich-Toskana). He acquired iconic properties such as Son Marroig and Miramar (the latter the headquarters of a school of oriental studies) and S’Estaca, drawing international attention to the beauty of the north-western coast.

Son Marroig, with its emblematic white marble temple, is a favourite spot for contemplating the iconic silhouette of Sa Foradada at sunset, a ritual that symbolises the magic of the Tramuntana.

Biodiversity and the Nature Reserve

Beyond the olive trees and terraces, the peaks and cliffs of the Tramuntana are a natural habitat of great value. In its highest parts, there are numerous endemic species and vegetation that is different from the typical Mediterranean.

The mountain range is home to:

• Black Vulture: It is home to the world’s only island population of this bird of prey. The Mediterranean Wildlife Conservation Centre, headquarters of the Black Vulture Conservation Foundation, is dedicated to its protection.
• Mallorcan Midwife Toad (ferreret): An endemic species that has survived in this environment.
• Others: Lizards, wild goats and small mammals coexist in this ecosystem.

Places such as the Puig de Galatzó Reserve, located on the eastern slope of the peak of the same name, offer marked trails where streams, waterfalls and springs abound, as well as vestiges of the old charcoal kilns.

The Tramuntana, even with the occasional snow that can cover its peaks in winter, especially Puig Major, is not a place for skiing, but for admiring the beauty of a mountain range with its white peak visible from all over the island.

Hidden Gems: Villages with Bohemian and French Soul

The Tramuntana mountain range is home to some of Mallorca’s most picturesque and culturally rich villages. Each settlement tells a story of isolation, art and adaptation:

Deià: The Bohemian Magnet

Known as the ‘artists’ paradise’, Deià is synonymous with bohemianism and exclusivity. Its most iconic figure is the British writer Robert Graves, who chose this magical enclave to live out the rest of his life. His grave in the village cemetery is a must-see to understand the atmosphere of slowness and creation that attracts artists and poets. Cala Deià, a small pebble cove, adds to its coastal charm.

Valldemossa: Carthusian elegance

Less than 20 kilometres from Palma, Valldemossa is perhaps the most famous village, largely thanks to the winter stay of Frédéric Chopin and the writer George Sand in 1838, who stayed in a cell at the Royal Carthusian Monastery of Valldemossa. Chopin described it as ‘the most beautiful place in the world’. Today, it celebrates its annual music festival in honour of the composer. It is also the humble birthplace of Santa Catalina Tomàs and the origin of the popular coca de patata.

---

Sóller: The Capital of the Golden Valley

Located in a fertile valley surrounded by orange, lemon and olive trees, Sóller functions as the unofficial capital of the mountains. Its historical isolation forced it to trade more actively with France than with Palma, leaving a trace of French influence that is palpable in its architecture and accent.

• Modernism and Wealth: The prosperity of its inhabitants is reflected in the modernist façades of the church of San Bartolomeu, the Town Hall and Can Prunera (now a modernist museum).
• The Train and the Tram: Sóller was connected to Palma over 100 years ago by its iconic wooden train (the ‘Flecha Roja’), which is still in operation. A nostalgic tram links the centre with Port de Sóller, an old fishing port and a spectacle in itself. Sóller’s train station hides a surprise: a space with paintings by Joan Miró.

Fornalutx and Biniaraix: The Protective Refuges

Fornalutx, often promoted as one of the most beautiful villages in Spain, and the hamlet of Biniaraix, nestle in the Sóller valley, surrounded by protective mountains, representing the quintessential Mallorcan mountain village.

Other Charms of the Sierra

• Andratx: In the far south-west, the tradition of its fishing port coexists with modernity.

• Pollença: A village of artists and craftsmen, notable for its 365 steps leading up to Calvari, the scene of an emotional Good Friday ceremony, and its summer cultural festival.

• Banyalbufar and Estellencs: With a coastline dotted with terraces sloping down to the sea, where vines and olive trees are cultivated.

• Alaró: Nestled between two mountains, it is home to one of the few (partially) standing medieval castles on the island.

• Bunyola: A quiet village, known for its gardens such as the Jardins d’Alfàbia, of Hispano-Arabic origin and rich in literary history.

Lluc, the spiritual heart of the Tramuntana

In the centre of the mountain range is the Santuario de Lluc, a place of pilgrimage and one of the most sacred sites in Mallorca. Surrounded by holm oak forests and mountains, the monastery has welcomed pilgrims and hikers for centuries. Inside, the Mare de Déu de Lluc, patron saint of the island, is venerated. In addition to the temple, the complex houses a museum, gardens and accommodation for visitors seeking an experience of contemplation or nature.

Some of the most famous mountain routes start from Lluc, such as the Volta al Puig Roig or the path to Puig de Massanella, the second highest peak in Mallorca. The area is a paradise for hiking and wildlife watching, especially birds of prey such as the black vulture, which finds one of its last island refuges here.

Coves and rugged coastline: hidden treasures

The Tramuntana coastline is mostly made up of vertiginous cliffs and pebble shores, hiding coves of unspoilt beauty:

• Sa Calobra: A small pebble cove next to the Torrent de Pareis, surrounded by rock.
• Cala Deià: One of the most beautiful, famous for its crystal-clear water and charming surroundings, very close to the bohemian village.
• Cala Tuent: At the foot of Puig Major, it is the largest cove in the area and one of the few that remains unspoilt.
• Cala de Llucalcari (Es Canyeret): A lesser-known gem near Deià, ideal for walking to the nearby Cova Fosca.
• Playa de Formentor: The exception: a sandy beach reminiscent of paradise, the wildest family beach in Mallorca.

Hiking, adventure and outdoor life

The Tramuntana is the perfect place for those seeking activity and direct contact with nature. Hiking is the star attraction, but it’s not the only option. The limestone walls and deep ravines offer unique opportunities for climbing, canyoning and coasteering, with the Sa Fosca canyon being one of the most spectacular in Europe.

Cyclists will find their own particular paradise here: roads such as the Coll de Sóller, the climb to Puig Major or the bends of Sa Calobra are real challenges that attract thousands of sports enthusiasts every year. In winter, snow even covers the highest peaks, offering an unusual image of Mallorca.

For those who prefer a more leisurely pace, the mountains are also synonymous with agritourism and local cuisine. The old ‘possessions’ (large rural estates) offer charming accommodation, and in many of them you can sample local products: extra virgin olive oil, Malvasia wine, roasted almonds and traditional sausages. The wineries of Banyalbufar, Andratx, and Esporles open their doors for tastings, while the weekly markets in Sóller, Pollença, and Valldemossa showcase the best of local crafts and agriculture.

The Pedra en Sec Route: The Discovery Trail

The best way to immerse yourself in the Tramuntana is through its network of ancient paths. The main one is the Pedra en Sec Route (GR 221), a long-distance trail that owes its name to the construction technique that marks its stages.

This 172 km marked trail (92 km of the main itinerary), which will total 271 km when completed, is an authentic experience of ‘the other Mallorca’, connecting mountain communities via the same cobbled paths that were used centuries ago.

This trail, structured in eight stages from Andratx to Pollença, offers a varied and authentic experience, connecting mountain communities via the same cobbled paths that were used centuries ago. The route is dotted with official mountain refuges (which require prior booking), and a particularly well-preserved section is the one that runs from Sóller to the peaks of Puig de l’Ofre and Es Cornadors.

The Most Amazing Section: Sóller – Deià – Valldemossa

The route linking Sóller and Deià (10 km), with a possible extension to Valldemossa (18 km), is considered the most spectacular. Not only does it pass through some of the most beautiful villages, but it also showcases the best-crafted dry stone pavements.

The route from Sóller starts in the valley of orange trees, following the Camí des Rost and the Camí de Castelló, ancient communication routes between Deià and Sóller, flanked by sturdy farmhouses (Possessions) and terraced fields. Here you will find Ca’s Xorc, an old oil mill now converted into a boutique hotel.

The section between Deià and Valldemossa follows much of the spectacular Camí de S’Arxiduc, commissioned by Luis Salvador to travel on horseback through his possessions, entering one of the wildest areas and ending in Valldemossa, the highest population centre on the island.

Tip from The Kompasse: For a complete immersion, we recommend bringing binoculars, as the Tramuntana is home to significant wildlife, including the world’s only island population of black vultures and the endemic Mallorcan midwife toad. The Sanctuary of Lluc, although not a GR221 refuge, also offers accommodation.

Vertigo Routes and the Engineering of the Curve

Travelling through the Tramuntana is an exercise in admiration, both for the landscape and for the audacity of human engineering. The massif demands demanding driving or cycling, rewarding the effort with unbeatable views.

Sa Calobra and Nus de Sa Corbata

The road leading to Sa Calobra is a masterpiece of road engineering. Designed by engineer Antonio Paretti in 1932, the MA-2141 connects one of the most inaccessible areas of the island. It is a gigantic Scalextric that culminates in the famous Nus de Sa Corbata (Tie Knot), a full 360-degree curve that has become a pilgrimage site for drivers and cyclists from all over the world. The route, a 14-kilometre descent with sharp bends, leads directly down to the sea, with the Torrent de Pareis as the final reward.

The Formentor Lighthouse: The End of the Party

The route through the Tramuntana mountains culminates at the northern tip of the island: Cap de Formentor. The cape resembles the prow of a stone ship resisting the onslaught of wind and waves. The road leading to the lighthouse, also designed by Paretti, is a challenge of curves and rocky landscapes that attracts cyclists from all over the world.

The Formentor Lighthouse, completed in 1863, stands in a mythical setting, the result of a pharaonic effort. It is the most desirable spot to watch the sunset, with a panoramic view that is simply marvellous from a distance.

Logistical note: During the summer (from 15 June to 15 September, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.), access by car to the Formentor road (from the beach to the lighthouse) is restricted to avoid crowds, and a shuttle bus is provided.

What to see in Mallorca

During your visit to the island, here are a number of places that we have included on our map in case you want to add them to your itinerary:

-Paradise beaches and coves

• Cala Mesquida: a beach experience in a still wild setting, far from the hustle and bustle of more urbanised areas.
• Cala Romántica: this is a hidden cove with pine-covered cliffs and crystal-clear blue waters that invite you to lose yourself.
• Cala Blava: a peaceful, family-friendly atmosphere makes this the perfect retreat for those seeking to escape the island’s more crowded beaches.
• Portal Vells: coastal area with crystal clear waters, three picturesque coves and a historic cave.
• Camp de Mar: chosen by travellers seeking dream beaches, quality cuisine and peaceful surroundings.

-Charming Places

• Cala Figuera: charming fishing port, known for its natural beauty and peaceful atmosphere.
• Sa Pobla: a place with cultural heritage and a unique natural environment such as the Parc Natural de s’Albufera.
• S’Illot: a place that combines a unique archaeological past, quiet beaches and a relaxed atmosphere.
• Porto Petro: surrounded by crystal-clear coves and framed by the Mondragó Natural Park.
• Santa Margarita: a town that retains its authentic spirit, largely untouched by mass tourism.
• Santa María del Camí: A village that combines history, wine-making tradition, craftsmanship and local atmosphere.
• Esporles: A village surrounded by holm oak forests, stone houses and paths that wind through the mountains.

-Tourist Attractions

• Artà: here you will find a complete destination, ancient history, charming cobbled streets, unspoilt natural landscapes, wild coves and a unique cultural heritage.
• Sant Elm: once a humble fishing port, it has been transformed over the years into a peaceful tourist destination.
• Sa Ponsa: a cosmopolitan and vibrant place, full of hotels, restaurants, yacht clubs and golf courses.
• Can Picafort: one of the island’s major tourist resorts, just a few decades ago it was a humble fishing village.
• Magaluf: Mallorca’s premier resort, with turquoise waters and fine sandy beaches, modern facilities, shows, theme parks and nightlife.
• Llucmajor: the perfect balance between history, nature, and quality of life, making it an ideal place to visit or live.

The spirit of the Tramuntana

The Serra de Tramuntana is, above all, a symbol of balance: between nature and culture, between past and present, between human effort and natural beauty. It is a place where everything fits together, like the stones of its walls without cement, held together by pure intelligence and respect.

Travelling through the Tramuntana is learning to look slowly. To stop at a viewpoint to see how the sun hides behind Sa Foradada, to listen to the echo of the bells in Lluc, or to feel the silence in a hidden cove. It is understanding that Mallorca is not only sea, but also mountains, history, art and soul.

Photo Credits

Below are the photo credits in order of appearance. Royalty-free photos will not be listed below:

• Andrés Nieto Porras from Palma de Mallorca, España, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Malopez 21, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Vicenç Salvador Torres Guerola, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Juan Lacruz, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Rafael Ortega Díaz, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Fr. Diana Korn, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Malopez 21, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Arquit3d, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons
• Ralf Roletschek (GFDL 1.2, Resolution restricted-by-sa or GFDL 1.2), via Wikimedia Commons
• Christoph Strässler, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Dirk Vorderstraße, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Rudolphu, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Tsungam, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Rudolphu, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons