Peñarroya de Tastavins, Teruel: A medieval corner between dinosaurs and mountains

On the wildest and most surprising side of Teruel, between reddish mountains and steep ravines, hides one of the most captivating villages in the Matarraña region: Peñarroya de Tastavins (or Pena-roja, in Catalan). With barely 450 inhabitants and a historical legacy dating back to the Neolithic period, this rural jewel offers a perfect fusion of monumental heritage, wild nature, legends, hiking routes and an authentic atmosphere where time seems to have stood still.

A past that goes back to the sea… and to the dinosaurs

Before it was a village, this territory was submerged under the sea. This is attested to by the abundant marine fossils found, as well as the palaeontological remains that have turned Peñarroya into a sub-site of Territorio Dinópolis. In 1997, the Tastavinsaurus sanzi, one of the most complete sauropod dinosaurs found in Europe, was discovered in the area.

But the human footprint is also ancient: Neolithic remains in the Bòrio cave, Iberian and Roman vestiges, and an impressive medieval past linked to the Order of Calatrava, which marked the urban, religious and economic development of the place for centuries.

A journey through the history of Peñarroya de Tastavins

In 1169 it was reconquered by Alfonso II of Aragon and, shortly afterwards, ceded to the Order of Calatrava. Under their tutelage, in 1271 the repopulation of the town was authorised and the first key elements of its urban structure were built: a mill, a bread oven and a wall that enclosed the original hamlet. Peñarroya was granted the title of town in 1337 and for centuries it depended on the Knights of Calatrava.

It experienced wars, sieges and moments of splendour, such as the royal concession of the privilege of holding an annual fair every 1 September, in force since 1471. In more recent times, the town was the scene of clashes during the War of Independence and the Civil War, leaving traces in some of its religious buildings. Throughout the 20th century, it suffered a sharp decline in population due to the rural exodus, although today it has come back to life thanks to sustainable tourism, the natural attraction of its surroundings and projects such as Territorio Dinópolis.

Strolling through the old town: between portals, churches and stately homes

Peñarroya de Tastavins is located at the foot of the Tossal de la Mola, where there are still vestiges of the old medieval castle. Its town centre, declared an Asset of Cultural Interest, is dotted with narrow streets, stone houses with wooden eaves, flowered balconies and staircases that climb up the hillside.

Among the must-see sights are:

Town Hall and 16th century prison

Located in the main square, the ground floor houses a perfectly preserved historic prison with original sgraffito work done by the prisoners.

Church of Santa María la Mayor

Renaissance temple from the 18th century, with three naves of equal height, side altars and a square bell tower. The Calatrava cross, an omnipresent symbol in the municipality, can be seen on its façades.

La Lonja and the washhouses

Former Renaissance market where the stately butcher’s shop was also located. Next to it, the communal washhouses that are still preserved today as a testimony to the daily life of the past.

The Sanctuary of the Virgen de la Fuente: Mudejar and spiritual art

Just 2 kilometres from the village, next to the river Tastavins, is the most emblematic monument: the Sanctuary of the Virgen de la Fuente, declared a World Heritage Site in 2001 for its exceptional Mudejar roof.

This monumental complex includes:

• The Hermitage of Dalt (14th century), in Gothic-Mudejar style, with an impressive polychrome wooden ceiling that preserves geometric, heraldic and plant motifs.
• The Ermita de Baix (1658), Baroque, with three naves, dome, sacristy and a natural fountain with 15 spouts that springs under the altar.
• An old inn, the Pig Interpretation Centre, the tourist office and a beautiful cloister open to the natural landscape.

According to tradition, the image of the Virgin appeared among brambles next to the spring. Since then, the sanctuary has been a place of pilgrimage and popular devotion.

Inhóspitak: dinosaurs in the heart of Teruel

Peñarroya de Tastavins is also famous for a very special inhabitant: the Tastavinsaurus sanzi, a sauropod dinosaur from more than 100 million years ago. Its remains were found in this area and gave rise to Inhóspitak, the first sub-site of Territorio Dinópolis outside the capital. Here you will be able to:

• Explore audiovisuals, excavation reproductions and didactic experiences for all ages.
• See the original fossils of Tastavinsaurus sanzi
• See a life-size replica of the 17-metre-long Tastavinsaurus sanzi.

This palaeontological centre offers a fascinating experience, with life-size reproductions, original bones, educational audiovisuals and a recreation of the site. An ideal plan if you are travelling with children, or if you are a lover of dinosaurs and natural history.

The Masmut Rocks: natural icon and living legend

One of the most imposing landscapes in Teruel can be found on the outskirts of the village: Les Roques del Masmut, a reddish conglomerate formation with vertical walls of more than 100 m. This spot is not only perfect for climbing and photography, but is also surrounded by local legends. One of them states that the name derives from an ancient Berber tribe, the Masmuda, although others claim that it comes from ‘la masía del mudo’ (the mute’s farmhouse). Some say that, from a certain angle, the silhouette of a sleeping mammoth can be seen, as if it were watching over the valley, and that colonies of griffon vultures nest on the walls, which can be seen from various points along the circular hiking route.

Hiking routes through Peñarroya: among fountains, rocks and rural heritage

The town has developed very interesting projects such as Peñarroya1300, which promotes more than 170 kilometres of routes for walkers, trail runners and cyclists. The aim is to rescue old paths and trails to connect with the wild environment of the mountains. Peñarroya is one of the great hiking destinations in the Matarraña. Its routes allow you to discover wild landscapes, history and tranquillity:

Rocas del Masmut circular route

Duration: 2-3 hours : Difficulty: Medium

One of the most spectacular routes. It goes completely around the rocks of the Masmut, between pine forests and viewpoints. Ideal for hikers and photographers.

Fonts Route

Duration: variable : Difficulty: Easy to medium

It links several of the natural springs of the municipality, accompanied by poems by the local writer Desideri Lombarte. A fusion of nature and literature.

Route to Salt d’en Ferri

A hike that crosses ravines to reach this beautiful hidden waterfall. You can also combine it with a visit to the Roques del Masmut.

Festivals and traditions: the soul of Peñarroya

Life in Peñarroya revolves around its customs. Some of the most outstanding festivals are:

• 17th January: San Antonio Abad
• 20 January: San Fabián and San Esteban
• 5 February: Santa Águeda
• From 7 to 12 September: Fiestas Mayores (open-air dances, religious acts, popular food and traditional events).

Also very special is the pilgrimage to the Hermitage of San Llambert, on the Sunday closest to 19th June, a tradition that has been alive since the 18th century. The village also has a strong associative and cultural movement. The hospitality of its inhabitants is one of the values most appreciated by visitors.

Other curious places with history

• Gothic space ‘Lo Roser’: an old Gothic church from the 14th century that has now been converted into a cultural space.
• Hermitage of San Llambert: small popular building from the 14th century, the destination of a traditional pilgrimage.
• Aragonese Rural Housing Park: ethnographic museum on the evolution of the habitat in Aragon.
• Casa Palomo and Casa Chimeta: two examples of traditional architecture with remarkable wooden balconies.
• Pedras de Rome viewpoint: excellent views of the Tastavins valley and the surrounding reliefs.

Where to stay in Peñarroya de Tastavins

To rest after a day of exploration, an excellent option is to stay at the Hostal Tastavins, located in the heart of Peñarroya de Tastavins. This cosy rural establishment offers a familiar and comfortable atmosphere, ideal to recharge your batteries after routes through the Rocas del Masmut or visits to the Sanctuary of the Virgen de la Fuente. Recommended features:

• Good value for money, which makes Hostal Tastavins a recurring point among travellers looking for an authentic experience in Matarraña.
• Strategic location: just a few steps from the historic centre, with easy access to footpaths and points of interest in the village.
• Traditional atmosphere: rooms with rustic details in wood and stone, combined with modern comforts.
• Friendly service: the staff, local and attentive, is always ready to help you with recommendations on routes, restaurants or curiosities of the area.

Conclusion: a trip to the most authentic heart of Teruel

If you are looking for a different kind of rural getaway in Teruel, with fossils, nature and a lot of heritage, Peñarroya de Tastavins is living history, nature in its purest state and sincere hospitality. From its Mudejar roofs to its routes among dinosaurs and legendary rocks, everything in this corner of the Matarraña invites you to explore, to feel and to return. If you are looking for an alternative, peaceful, cultural and rural destination, Peñarroya de Tastavins is a safe bet. It will not leave you indifferent. To make the most of your rural getaway, here are some useful products that you can purchase before your trip so that you are prepared for this wonderful getaway:

• Solar Powerbank
• Hat with Sun Protection 50
• Waterproof Hiking Boots
• Lightweight Backpack with Hydration Bag
• Folding Trekking Poles
• Breathable Raincoat

In this article you will find some affiliate links. If you book or buy something through them, you help us to continue creating independent and useful content, at no extra cost to you. Thank you very much for making this possible!