Alosno, Huelva: birthplace of the fandango and heart of Andévalo

Andévalo. This vast and often overlooked region of Huelva stretches out like a canvas of holm oaks, cork oaks, and olive groves, guarding silence and, at the same time, the vibrant heartbeat of ancestral traditions. It is a land that does not reveal itself at first glance; its beauty is a serenity forged in the harshness of the countryside and the intensity of the subsoil. At its center, some 40 kilometers from the capital, lies Alosno, a municipality that is much more than a dot on the map: it is a melting pot of mining history, the undisputed birthplace of the Huelva fandango, and the repository of a unique cultural heritage.

With a population of around 4,500 inhabitants, spread between the main town and its Autonomous Local Entity, Tharsis (the former mining hub of the area), Alosno stands at an altitude of 183 meters, overlooking the Oraque River, a tributary of the Odiel. But beyond its geographical coordinates, what defines Alosno is its deep and fascinating identity. A town of farmers, shepherds, and miners that, over the millennia, has managed to create an intangible heritage with universal roots.

A history forged between mines and melodies

The history of Alosno is closely linked to mining. Since ancient times, the land in this area has hidden a valuable treasure beneath its feet: copper, silver, and other minerals that the Tartessians and Romans knew how to exploit. In the nearby area of Tharsis, a district of Alosno and the epicenter of mining for centuries, remains have been found that confirm the antiquity of this activity. The famous Mask of Tharsis, dating from the 7th century BC, was also discovered there, one of the oldest pieces of Iberian metalwork.

During Roman rule, the region experienced economic prosperity, but after the fall of the Empire, mining activity declined. It was not until the 19th century that a revival took place, led by the Tharsis Sulphur and Copper Company Limited, a British company that transformed the landscape, economy, and demographics of the entire area. It was then that the working-class neighborhood emerged, railroads were built, and Alosno became an important economic center in the province.

With the decline of mining at the end of the 20th century, the municipality withdrew into itself, returning to the countryside, livestock farming, and its most enduring intangible heritage: music and traditions. Thus, the town found in its culture the true gold mine that still gives it life today.

A Town in Motion: The Legend of the Move

One of the most interesting stories about Alosno is that of its own foundation in its current location. The town was not always where we know it today. Originally, the population center was located a few kilometers away, in El Portichuelo.

It is believed that around 1444, the people of El Portichuelo were forced to relocate. The reason was none other than the wealth of the subsoil: the acidic waters from the mines began to negatively affect the health of the inhabitants, livestock, and agriculture, making life in that place unhealthy. To prevent the total depopulation of the area, the Duke of Medinasidonia granted the settlers tax-free pastures on the current site.

This movement was not only geographical, but also cultural. The move, which was carried out slowly and gradually, attracted new people, especially from outside the province. The arrival of people, particularly from areas of León and the north, and even a colony of converted Jews—which would give rise to an abundance of surnames derived from fruit trees, such as Limón, Naranjo, and Carrasco—created a true melting pot of cultures. This mixture is key to understanding the richness of Alosno’s customs and folklore, which preserves traces of the distant past and is manifested in the town’s special fondness for music, poems, songs, and romances—a legacy, it is postulated, of the musical tradition of the Hebrew people.

Once the feudal estates were dissolved in the 19th century, Alosno rose to the status of town in 1812, entering a period of splendor and prosperity that, the subsequent decline of the mining industry has not been able to completely eclipse.

Calle Real and the essence of a white village

Anyone who arrives in Alosno Huelva will soon notice that this is not just another village. The streets are laid out irregularly, adapted to the terrain and full of corners that invite you to get lost. And among them all, there is one that has its own name and legendary soul: Calle Real.

As the popular verses say:

“Calle Real del Alosno, with its steel corners…”

And the fact is that its corners are literally reinforced with steel, a peculiarity that arose out of pure necessity: the old carts with large wheels used to hit the facades when turning in these narrow streets, and the metal prevented the walls from wearing away. Walking along it is like walking through the living history of the town, among whitewashed houses, blue doors, and wrought-iron railings.

From Calle Real, you can easily access the old town, where one of the main temples of the town stands: the Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de Gracia. Built between 1785 and 1793 on the site of an old 16th-century Mudejar temple, it stands out for its sober Renaissance elegance. Its tower dominates the town’s skyline, and its interior, with three naves separated by pillars, houses images that are highly venerated by the people of Alosno.

The Hermitage of the Lord of the Column and the silence of the soul

On the outskirts of the town, in a peaceful setting surrounded by vegetation, stands the Hermitage of the Lord of the Column, the first hermitage outside the walls of the province of Huelva, built in the 16th century. With its simple, bright, traditional architecture, it houses the images of the Cristo de las Aguas and the Señor de la Columna, the main figures in the Holy Week processions. Its whiteness stands out against the blue sky of Andévalo, and the surroundings convey a peace that is difficult to describe.

Stroll among the fountains and stately homes

Alosno also invites you to explore it at a leisurely pace, without a map, stopping at its fountains, squares, and stately homes. On Calle Regajillo, for example, you will find the Fuente del Piano, a cool and quiet corner surrounded by traditional architecture. Nearby, the 18th-century Casa del Vizconde de Orta stands out, as do other stately homes that recall the prosperity of times gone by, such as those on Calle Nueva and Calle de la Condesa de Barbate, named in honor of the benefactor who promoted the founding of the Convent of the Sisters of Charity of Santa Ana in the 1950s.

Cabezo Juré: Alosno’s most distant past

Few people know that one of the most important archaeological sites in the southwestern peninsula is located in the vicinity of the municipality: Cabezo Juré. Dating back to the third millennium BC, this site shows how, almost five thousand years ago, the ancient inhabitants of the area were skilled in metallurgy and made ceramics, textiles, and stone tools. The finds include mills, arrowheads, remains of smelting works, and even evidence of an advanced social structure.

The discovery of Cabezo Juré reinforces the idea that Andévalo was a cradle of civilization long before the arrival of the Tartessians or Romans, a hub of trade and production that still holds many secrets beneath its reddish soil.

The fandango of Alosno: the soul of Andévalo

If there is one thing that defines Alosno above all else, it is its music. This is where the fandango of Huelva, one of the purest expressions of Andalusian folklore, was born and developed. It is not just a song, but a way of feeling. The fandango of Alosno has a peculiar and distinctive guitar style and intonations that differentiate it from other styles. In Alosno, the fandango is sung in homes, in the streets, in taverns, and at parties, passed down from generation to generation as a living heritage.

The town has produced great flamenco performers and creators, among whom Paco Toronjo (1903-1975) stands out, considered the most important fandango singer of Huelva of all time. Considered the great master of the fandango, he elevated this art to universal status, and in his honor a bust was erected in Calle Barrios in 2000, near the promenade that divides the town into “Arriba” (up) and “Abajo” (down). Flamenco scholars continue to flock to Alosno to unravel and learn about this unique style. A must-see for flamenco lovers.

The Alosno fandango, with its free rhythm and emotionally charged lyrics, has been declared an Asset of Cultural Interest within the Activities of Ethnological Interest by the Regional Government of Andalusia. Hearing it live, during the Cruces de Mayo festival or at any spontaneous gathering, is an experience that is difficult to forget.

The Ritual Dances of Huelva

Alosno’s intangible cultural heritage is enriched by its three traditional dances, declared Intangible Cultural Heritage by the Regional Government of Andalusia in 2011, as part of the ritual dances of Huelva:

1. The Dance of the Cascabeleros: The star of the Patron Saint’s Festival of San Juan Bautista.
2. The Dance of San Antonio de Padua: Revived after decades, it accompanies the pilgrimage of the same name.
3. The Fandango Parao: A specific and ritualized form of local singing and dancing.

These dances, of uncertain and possibly pagan origin, are a spectacular manifestation of local identity.

Festivals that are identity

The annual cycle in Alosno is marked by an extraordinarily rich festive calendar, where faith is intertwined with folklore of ancestral roots.

• Las Luminarias de San Antonio Abad (January): On January 16, large bonfires are lit. A hypnotic scene unfolds as horses, mules, and donkeys jump over the fire so that the protector of animals will keep them safe from all disease.
• Holy Week: The processions begin on Holy Wednesday. The most typical and emotional is that of Los Encuentros, which takes place on Holy Thursday. On Good Friday, the Señor de la Columna is transferred to his chapel, where he will wait until Holy Week the following year.
• Pascua de la Lechuga (Easter Sunday): On Easter Sunday, the people of Alosno gather in the countryside. It is a unique day: a straw doll symbolizing Judas is shot and then burned. It is essential to bring the traditional lettuce and the typical bollo de pringue con huevos (a type of bread roll with eggs).
• Corpus Christi, Romería de San Antonio de Padua (Pilgrimage of Saint Anthony of Padua) and the Fiestas de San Juan Bautista (Feast of Saint John the Baptist), patron saint of the town. The big day is June 24, the patron saint’s feast day. On the previous nights, the Casa-Hermandad (Brotherhood House) hosts the rehearsals for the Danza de los Cascabeleros (Dance of the Jingle Bells). On the 24th, the solemn procession is preceded by this unique dance. At the end of the mass, the dancers offer a final dance to the saint, dancing without ever turning their backs on him and in a counterclockwise direction, a ritual that dates back to ancient pagan practices. The men wear the Thursday of Comadre costume, another ethnological symbol. The day is filled with hospitality, with traditional sweets and the local drink, “aguaíllo” (aguardiente, water, and sugar), offered to those in attendance.
• In August, young people take center stage during Youth Cultural Week, which is full of sporting and cultural activities.
• In December, Las Jachas: Coinciding with the Feast of the Immaculate Conception (December 8), the “jachas” are erected: giant columns made of gamones (long, dry stems), decorated with colored paper. On the night of the 8th, these structures are set alight in a symbolic burning that represents the purity of the Virgin, accompanied by popular songs.

Las Cruces de Mayo and the “Colá”

Las Cruces de Mayo is celebrated during the first two weekends of May. This festival, classified as cultural heritage along with those of Almonaster, Berrocal, and Bonares, revolves around a very Alosnero concept: the “colá”.

The colá was originally an area attached to the house, a passageway through which farm animals were “sneaked” to avoid passing through the main room. Today it is used as a garage, but during the Cruces de Mayo, the twelve colás set up in different houses are decorated to house the crosses. After midnight, they are opened. Inside, the women wait in hierarchical order, singing biblical and mythological seguidillas, dancing and playing the alosnera tambourine at the foot of the Cross.

Meanwhile, the men walk the streets in groups, to the sound of guitars and singing fandangos alosneros, carrying a cane basket with drinks. When they arrive at the colá, they enter to ask the women to dance. The fandangos and typical sevillanas of this area, the seguidillas, resound until dawn, creating a unique atmosphere of celebration and tradition.

Flavors of Alosno: from gurumelo to aguardiente

Alosnera cuisine is another of its great treasures. Here, people eat with soul and without haste. In winter, the protagonists are the dishes of the slaughter: cabbage stew, roast pestorejo, chacinas, and cachuela. In spring, the fields give us gurumelos, mushrooms that are highly prized throughout the province. And when the heat is on, there’s nothing like a cucumber salad with oil, vinegar, and salt.

The sweets also have their own names: gañotes, pestiños, piñas de piñonate, roscos, and the typical tortas follás, made with lard and pork rinds. During Easter, the bollo de pringue con huevo, a symbol of the celebration of life, is a must.

And, of course, homemade aguardiente, the inseparable companion of the cantes alosneros (traditional songs).

Alosno and Tharsis: two souls, one history

Although Alosno is the main town, within the municipality is Tharsis, an autonomous local entity that for decades was the mining heart of the region. Its landscape is dominated by slag heaps and galleries that recall a past of hard work and prosperity. Today, its mines remain inactive, but the memory of that era is still very much alive in the architecture, the mining railways, and the stories of its people.

Nature and surroundings

The municipality of Alosno, covering more than 190 km², is crossed by the Oraque River, a tributary of the Odiel, and covered by fields of cereals, olive groves, and pastures of holm oaks and cork oaks.

It is a land of gentle landscapes, with a wide horizon that invites you to walk and contemplate. In the surrounding area there are small routes and rural paths that allow you to delve into the tranquility of the deepest Andévalo, where time seems to have stood still.

What to see in Huelva

If, in addition to visiting Alosno, you want to learn more about Huelva, we suggest other places that we have added to our map, so you can add them to your itinerary:

• Bollullos Par del Condado: A place steeped in wine and religion. It is 56 minutes away by car via the A-495 and A-49.
• Isla Cristina: If you want a place with a beach, this is a good option. It is 46 minutes away by car via the A-495 and A-49.
• Villarrasa: An inland village with a lot of soul. It is 54 minutes away by car via the A-495 and A-49.
• Zufre: Another inland village near the Sierra de Huelva. It is 1 hour and 31 minutes away via the A-461.
• El Portil: A beach destination that is not too crowded. It is 44 minutes away via the A-495.
• Moguer: Visit the home of Juan Ramón Jiménez. It is a 44-minute drive via the A-495.
• Bonares: A village where you can breathe in the purest essence of inland Huelva. 47 minutes via the A-495 and A-49.
• Mazagón: Unspoilt beaches stretching as far as the eye can see, pine forests and a tranquillity that seems to stand still in time. 54 minutes via the A-495.
• Aljaraque: A town where you can immerse yourself in nature or enjoy Andalusian culture. 42 minutes via the A-495.
• Rociana del Condado: Its historic center has been declared a Historic-Artistic Site. 54 minutes via the A-495 and A-49.
• Galaroza: This white village in northern Huelva combines heritage and nature in perfect balance. 1 hour and 13 minutes via the A-495 and HU-7104.

A walk with soul

Walking through Alosno is like traveling through centuries of history condensed into a handful of streets. On the Paseo de Arriba or the Paseo de Abajo, where the town hall is located, life passes slowly: the elderly chat in the sun, children run around, and the terraces of the bars are filled with conversation and laughter. In every corner of this village in Huelva, you can feel the hospitality of its people, that open and warm character that makes a visit a human experience as well as a tourist one.

Alosno is an essential stop for anyone who wants to get to know the soul of Andévalo. Among ancient mines, fandangos, and devotions, this corner of Andalusia shows that wealth is not always measured in gold or copper: sometimes it is found in memories, customs, and the music that echoes on May nights.

Photo Credits

Below are the photo credits in order of appearance. Royalty-free photos will not be listed below:

• Cover Image: Andresmparra, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Pedrali, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Rob Lavinsky, iRocks.com – CC-BY-SA-3.0, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Abraham del pozo, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Jose A., CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Contreras, via verpueblos.com
• Johnfmunoz, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Jose A., CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Ayuntamiento de Alosno, via alosno.es
• Andresmparra, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Ayuntamiento de Alosno, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Jose A., CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Andresmparra, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Jordi Landero, via Huelvainformación
• Jordi Landero, via Huelvainformación
• Abraham del pozo, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Antonio Montilla Lucena, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Abraham del pozo, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Jose A., CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• 19Tarrestnom65, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons