Sant Mateu, Castellón: the heart of the Maestrazgo that still beats in stone

Sant Mateu, the historic capital of the Maestrazgo, is one of those places that surprise visitors with its rich heritage, its natural surroundings and the centuries-old legacy that can be felt in every corner. Located just 65 kilometres north of Castellón and 27 kilometres from the Mediterranean, this municipality in Baix Maestrat is the perfect getaway for those in search of history, authenticity and charming rural landscapes.

At the foot of gentle mountains and surrounded by fields of olive, almond and pine trees, Sant Mateu has an exceptional historic quarter, declared an Asset of Cultural Interest, which will transport you straight back to the Middle Ages. Strolling through its cobbled streets, visiting its hermitages or discovering the vestiges of its Jewish and Christian past is an experience that no heritage lover should miss.

The history of Sant Mateu: capital of the Maestrazgo

The origin of Sant Mateu dates back to times before the conquest of James I, but it was in 1237 when it was handed over to the Order of the Hospitallers, who granted it the Town Charter. In 1319 it passed into the hands of the powerful Order of Montesa, becoming the capital and head of the Maestrazgo, as well as the residence of its Masters. This marked the beginning of a period of commercial and political splendour for the town.

In the 14th century, Sant Mateu became one of the main centres for exporting wool to the looms of Florence. Several General Courts of the Kingdom of Valencia were held here (1369, 1370, 1421, 1421, 1429 and 1495) and it was the site of important historical decisions, such as the end of the Western Schism, which took place on 15 August 1429. Personalities such as Pope Luna, Felipe II, San Vicente Ferrer and Clement VIII visited the town.

A stroll through the historic quarter

The nerve centre of Sant Mateu is its Plaza Mayor, also known as Plaza del Ángel. Built in the 14th century, it conserves its medieval layout, with arcades of thick stone columns and a central fountain crowned by an angel, symbol of the city’s coat of arms. A large part of local life revolves around it and it is a meeting point during the most important celebrations.

Opposite the square, we find the Town Hall or Cort Nova, one of the best examples of Valencian civil Gothic architecture. It was built in the 15th century on the site of an old palace belonging to the Vilanova family and stands out for its ashlar façade and its windows with mullioned windows and tri-lobed arches. Next to it, the Jewish Alley reminds us of the presence of an active Jewish community during the 13th and 14th centuries, at the height of the wool trade.

Nearby, the Borrull Palace (15th century) was the seat of the Criminal Court between 1883 and 1892. Today it houses the Municipal History Museum and part of the Tourist Office. Inside you can see everything from pieces of medieval pottery to the town’s festive giants and reproductions of original Gothic elements.

Must-see monuments in Sant Mateu

One of the town’s great treasures is the Archpriestly Church of San Mateo Apóstol, declared a Historic-Artistic Monument. Its construction began in the 13th century in Romanesque style, but it was extended with Gothic elements in later centuries. Its Romanesque façade, the so-called Porta Falsa in Gothic style (15th century) and, above all, its imposing 32-metre-high octagonal bell tower stand out.

Inside the church is the Archpriestly Museum, which houses an exceptional collection of medieval gold and silverware. Among its most notable pieces are the Creu Grossa (1397), the Lignum Crucis, the chalice of Pope Luna and the reliquary of Madonna Galina, all of them authentic jewels of Valencian sacred art.

Other important buildings not to be missed are:

• The Augustinian Monastery (photo above), founded in the 16th century, with a Baroque church and one of the medieval towers integrated into its structure.
• The Palace of the Marquis of Villores, an elegant Renaissance building on a Gothic base, which belonged to one of the most influential families in the municipality.
• The Llàstimes bell tower (bottom of the photo), the only vestige of the old Dominican convent (1360), which hosted important chapters of the Order of Montesa.

Walls, fountains and dungeons

Sant Mateu conserves part of its old 14th century walls, with stretches reaching a height of 6 metres. For centuries, these fortifications resisted sieges and invasions until they were partly destroyed after the War of the Spanish Succession and the Carlist Wars. Remnants can still be seen in several streets of the old town, as well as in the Cantacorbs Tower or the old Morella gateway.

Among the most emblematic fountains are:

• The Angel Fountain, in the Plaza Mayor, with four spouts in the shape of animal heads and a statue of the town’s patron saint angel.
• The Mare de Déu Fountain (photo below), from the 18th century, with its stone image of the Virgin and Child and six Tuscan columns surrounding it.

It is also possible to visit Les Presons, the old medieval dungeons that formed part of the first town hall, known as the Cort Vella. Inside, original walls, barrel vaults and two gloomy cells have been preserved, allowing you to imagine what justice was like in past centuries.

Churches and hermitages that narrate the spirituality of the Maestrazgo

Spirituality also plays an important role in Sant Mateu. Beyond the Archpriestly Church, the following stand out:

• The Church of San Pedro, the oldest temple in the town, with origins in the 13th century and later transformations in the Baroque style.
• The Ermita de la Mare de Déu dels Àngels (outside in the photo above, and the inside of the hermitage shown in the photo below), a 16th century complex set in a privileged natural environment with a church, guest house, bell tower and viewpoint.
• The hermitage of San Cristóbal, located near the previous one and with wide views of the Angel valley.
• Remains of other hermitages such as Santa Bárbara, San Roque or Santa Magdalena also dot the rural surroundings of the town.

Museums for all tastes

Sant Mateu is also surprising for its wide range of museums, including:

• The Juan Cano Forner Palaeontological Museum, with one of the best collections of ammonites in Europe.
• The aforementioned Archpriestly Museum, specialising in medieval sacred art.
• The Ethnographic Museum, located in the dungeons of Les Presons, which exhibits everyday objects from the 19th and 20th centuries.
• The Municipal History Museum, inside the Borrull Palace, with documents, portraits and Ibero-Roman archaeological pieces.

Hiking routes and nature

The surroundings of Sant Mateu are ideal for hiking. Its municipal area is crossed by several short distance footpaths (PR), many of them on ancient medieval routes such as the Via Augusta or the Camí dels Assegadors.

Some recommended routes are:

• The ascent to the Sanctuary of Mare de Déu dels Àngels, with spectacular views.
• The path to the Racó del Frare, a quiet corner among pine woods.
• The route of the thousand-year-old olive trees, which runs through unique specimens that have survived for centuries.

Traditional gastronomy

Sant Mateu’s cuisine is based on local products, and its traditional recipe book preserves dishes of great flavour and authenticity. Some of its specialities include:

• Olleta de Sant Mateu, a hearty stew with meat and vegetables.
• Baked rice, larded lamb and rabbit with snails.
• In confectionery, the most outstanding dishes are rollets d’aiguardent, pastissets, bunyols, primetes and coques salades (savoury cakes).

In addition, there are local products such as honey, cheese and, above all, extra virgin olive oil, the essential base of the Mediterranean diet.

Festivals and traditions

Tradition is very much alive in Sant Mateu. Numerous festivities are held throughout the year, among which the following stand out:

• The pilgrimage of the Mare de Déu dels Àngels, on the second Saturday after Easter.
• The patron saint festivities, from 18th to 29th August, in honour of Santa Tecla and San Clemente.
• The Ball Pla, a traditional dance performed on 20 August.
• The big day of Saint Matthew the Apostle, patron saint of the municipality, on 21 September.

Accommodation in Sant Mateu

Spending at least one night in Sant Mateu is the best way to calmly savour its heritage, its landscapes and its welcoming atmosphere. The town has an interesting range of accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets: from charming rural houses with views over the valley, to historic flats in the heart of the town centre or small family-run guesthouses where tranquillity prevails.

We have selected three ideal options so that you can choose the one that best suits your style of travel:

Remember to book in advance, especially in high season or during local festivals, when Sant Mateu is full of life and tradition.

Sant Mateu, a journey to the soul of the Maestrazgo region

Sant Mateu is much more than a charming village. It is a living lesson in medieval history, a testimony to the importance of Maestrazgo in the Crown of Aragon, and a perfect getaway for those in search of cultural tourism, hiking and good gastronomy. Getting lost among its narrow streets, discovering palaces and dungeons, climbing its hermitages or simply having a vermouth in the arcades of its main square, is to immerse yourself in a unique experience. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit Sant Mateu (Castellón) and discover why this corner of the Baix Maestrat deserves to be on your list of essential destinations. To make the most of your rural getaway, here are some useful products that you can buy before your trip so that you can be prepared for this wonderful getaway:

• Solar Powerbank
• Hat with Sun Protection 50
• Waterproof Hiking Boots
• Lightweight Backpack with Hydration Bag
• Folding Trekking Poles
• Breathable Raincoat

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