Calaceite: a cultural jewel in the Matarraña region between art, history and landscape

Halfway between living history and contemporary creativity, Calaceite shines as one of the most charming villages in Teruel. Declared an Asset of Cultural Interest and distinguished as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Spain, this town in Matarraña invites you to wander through its cobbled streets, admire its Iberian and medieval heritage, and savour the calm of its rural setting.

Located between the rivers Algars and Matarraña, and at the foot of the hill of San Cristóbal, the town preserves its defensive structures, historic gateways, noble houses and squares with character. But Calaceite does not live only from the past: today it is also a meeting point for artists, lovers of good olive oil and travellers in search of authenticity.

History between cultures: from the Iberians to the Calatravans

The origins of Calaceite go back to Iberian times. Proof of this are the numerous archaeological sites scattered around the area, such as the Sant Antoni settlement or Tossal Redó. Later, during the Andalusian period, the fortress known as Qal’at Zayd dominated the area and left behind a visible mark in the irrigation systems and popular architecture.

After the reconquest by Ramón Berenguer IV, Calaceite was handed over to the knights Rotland de Cambrils and Dalmau de Canyelles in 1151. It later passed into the hands of the Order of Calatrava, the Chapter of Tortosa and other lords who left their mark on the urban and religious development of the municipality. In 1644, during the Catalan War of Secession, the village was burnt down and its Baroque reconstruction gave rise to many of the buildings we see today.

Calaceite and the Matarraña: a refuge for artists, infinite sunsets and centenary olive trees.

There are places in the world where you can feel at peace, even when you are carrying storms inside. This is how the Chilean writer José Donoso perceived it when he arrived in Matarraña, that border region between Teruel, Tarragona and Castellón that seems suspended in time. In his refuge in Calaceite, surrounded by olive groves, cypress trees and the persistent murmur of the river, he found a haven of untouched beauty that he described as ‘almost untouchable’.

That serene landscape, which also inspired his daughter Pilar Donoso, still remains. The bells of the church of the Assumption continue to strike the hours, as if time had surrendered to the harmony of this town. The stone façades, the gothic windows and the baroque doorways are still there, amidst cats in the sun and echoes of literary conversations.

Cradle of the Latin American boom… in Teruel

It is no coincidence that Calaceite became the rural capital of the so-called Latin American boom. Writers such as Mario Vargas Llosa, Gabriel García Márquez and Carlos Fuentes passed through here, attracted by Donoso’s presence and the magnetism of the surroundings. Some even said that his house in Roda Street looked like the headquarters of the UN. Today, this cultural legacy lives on, not only in books, but also in the atmosphere of its squares and narrow streets.

Calaceite was a pioneer: the first international telephone conference in the province was held from here. A detail that seems minor, but which illustrates the will to open up to the world of a town that, isolated by geography, knew how to make itself.

Key things to see in Calaceite

Slow strolls, art in the squares and excitement on the horizon

Those who arrive in Calaceite in a hurry may fall into the trap of thinking that it resembles other villages in the Matarraña region. But it is enough to stop, walk slowly through the Plaza Mayor or cross the arcades to realise that this place has a soul. Flâneur and rural traveller meet here. It is in this wandering that jewels emerge such as Maella street, the church with its Solomonic columns, or the chapels that appear without warning, such as the chapel of the Virgen del Pilar.

Plaza España and Town Hall

The heart of the town is the Plaza España, also known as Plaza del Sitjar. It is a beautiful arcaded square with passages, arches and noble houses that speak of the splendour of other times. Here we find the Town Hall, an emblematic building that presides over the whole.

Portal de Maella and Chapel of the Virgin of Pilar

One of the historic entrances to the town centre is the Portal de Maella, over which stands a charming 18th century Baroque chapel dedicated to the Virgen del Pilar. From its four arches, up to eight streets can be glimpsed, creating a unique perspective of the urban layout.

Church of the Assumption

The Church of the Assumption in Calaceite, built in the 18th century on the site of an old Gothic church, is one of the main examples of Baroque architecture in Matarraña. Designed by Francisco de Ibargüens and consecrated in 1710, it stands out for its plan with three equal naves, its façade with Solomonic columns and an unfinished bell tower. It was burnt down during the Civil War and subsequently restored, until it was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest in 2001. Today it continues to be a spiritual and historical emblem of the town.

Iberian and archaeological heritage

Iberian settlement of Sant Antoni

And if there is one place where time really stands still, it is in the Iberian settlement of San Antonio, especially at sunset. To contemplate the sunset from this ancient settlement is to repeat a gesture that its inhabitants did as far back as the 5th century BC. Between terraced olive groves and an endless horizon, one can understand why Pilar Donoso wrote that she felt at home here at last. Located in the Sierra de San Cristóbal, this site has remains of walls, towers and dwellings dating from the 5th to 3rd centuries BC. It was probably destroyed by the arrival of the Romans. A visit offers a fascinating insight into the first settlers in the area.

Tossal Redó

It includes two settlements: the ‘small’ and the ‘large’. The latter has recently been restored and stands out for its urban organisation, with streets, dwellings, remains of walls and the possible presence of towers. Ideal for archaeology lovers.

Museums and living culture

Juan Cabré Museum

Dedicated to the Calaceite-born archaeologist, the museum houses an important collection of archaeological pieces, old photographs, traditional tools and temporary exhibitions. It is an essential stop to understand the past of Matarraña.

Artists’ Square

This corner has become a tribute to the inspiration that Calaceite has given to artists from all over the world. Sculptures, gardens and a welcoming environment make this square a meeting point for art lovers.

Hermitage of San Cristóbal

Situated at the top of the hill overlooking the village, it offers spectacular views and is a place of pilgrimage and celebration during local festivals. In July a mass is held here and vehicles are blessed in honour of San Cristóbal, patron saint of drivers.

Cycling through history

The Val de Zafán Greenway, which passes through the nearby station of Cretas, offers another way of discovering the Matarraña: on two wheels. Following the old railway line, the traveller crosses bridges, tunnels and dreamlike landscapes, always with the river as a companion along the route. An ideal route to connect with nature and savour the region by pedal stroke, without haste, as everything is experienced in the Matarraña.

Festivities and highlights

Sant Antoni (16th January): with bonfires, blessing of animals and traditional events.
San Cristóbal (10th July): mass, procession, dance and blessing of vehicles.
Festes Majors (14 August): with music, gastronomy and popular celebrations.
Fira de la Birra (April): gastronomic event with craft beers and local products.

Taste the gastronomy

Visitors will have the opportunity to savour emblematic local specialities, such as ‘hortera’, a delicious vegetable stew that is often enriched with the addition of snails, and the succulent conejo al salmorejo, a tasty dish that captures the essence of traditional Matarraña cuisine. These traditional preparations, renowned for their simplicity and depth of flavour, offer a genuine and unpretentious representation of the region’s culinary heritage.

Olive oil and local products

One of the essential pillars of Calaceite’s culinary identity is its prized extra virgin olive oil, produced in the region’s traditional oil mills, known as almazaras. The velvety, robust olive oil, a hallmark of Mediterranean cuisine, is not only an indispensable ingredient in the local culinary repertoire, but also a source of pride for the residents of Calaceite, who continue to maintain the age-old art of olive oil production. In addition to the liquid gold of olive oil, the local larder is stocked with a varied selection of artisan products, such as sun-dried tomatoes, succulent sardines, the distinctive flavour of cod and a variety of cured pork products, all of which contribute to the authentic and wholesome character of Calaceite’s culinary landscape.

Taste sweets and desserts

Concluding a culinary journey through the traditional gastronomy of Calaceite would be incomplete without indulging in the local sweets and desserts, which are steeped in centuries-old recipes and the essence of rural culinary craftsmanship. The local sweets, such as the emblematic tortas de alma and the delicious casquetas, are a testament to the region’s artisan confectionery traditions, made with the utmost care and mastery to capture the true spirit of traditional Aragonese confectionery. Each sweet offering is a reflection of the festive and communal spirit of the local culture, evoking the warmth and hospitality for which Calaceite is famous.

Charming accommodation in Calaceite

To sleep in Calaceite is to immerse yourself in the essence of Matarraña. Whether you choose a rustic hotel, a restored manor house or a different kind of stay in contact with nature, here rest comes with authenticity. We leave you with some options that have been highly rated by travellers:

Around Calaceite

Here are some more places we have marked on the map near Calaceite, in Teruel, so you can add them to your itinerary. We have also included the distances by car from each place:

Cantavieja: discover this beautiful medieval village. It is located 1 hour and 44 minutes away via the Ebro Motorway/N-232 and CV-125.
Mirambel: a medieval walled town declared a Historic-Artistic Site. 1 hour and 58 minutes via the Ebro Motorway/N-232 and CV-125.
Peñarroya de Tastavins: medieval village among dinosaurs and mountains. 41 minutes via the N-420 and the Ebro Motorway/N-232.
Castellote: visit this village with its impressive Templar castle. 1 hour and 3 minutes via the N-420 and A-226.
Puertomingalvo: another medieval village belonging to the network of ‘The Most Beautiful Villages in Spain’. It is 2 hours and 13 minutes away via the Ebro Motorway/N-232.
Monroyo: medieval village with many hiking trails. 34 minutes via the N-420 and the Ebro Motorway/N-232.
Sarrión: world capital of black truffles. 2 hours and 33 minutes via the N-420.

Calaceite, the essence of Matarraña

In short, Calaceite, Teruel, offers a unique blend of rich history, charming old town and delicious gastronomy. With its remarkable buildings and monuments, archaeological heritage and traditional dishes, Calaceite is a must-visit destination for those looking to experience the heart of Aragon. From its olive oil and local produce to its tempting sweets and desserts, a trip to Calaceite is sure to be a memorable culinary experience. What are you waiting for? Discover all that Calaceite has to offer and plan your trip today.

Practical tips for your visit

Wear comfortable shoes: the historic quarter has slopes and cobblestone pavement.
Check the opening times of the Juan Cabré Museum before you go.
Don’t forget to bring water if you visit the Ermita de San Cristóbal hermitage or the Iberian settlements.

Recommended products for your trip to Calaceite

Preparing your getaway to Calaceite? Here are some items that can help you make the most of it. Before packing your suitcase, don’t forget these useful items that will make your getaway easier:

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Photo Credits

Below are the photo credits in order of appearance. Royalty-free photos will not be listed below:

Cover Image: José Luis Mieza from Manresa-Barcelona, Spain, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Enfo, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Willtron, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
José Luis Mieza from Manresa-Barcelona, Spain, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Consuelo Fernandez, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
José Luis Mieza from Manresa-Barcelona, Spain, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Mikipons, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Aitor Escauriaza, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ángel M. Felicísimo from Mérida, España, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Nachosan, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
V. Ripoll Hernández, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons