El Rasillo de Cameros, a natural refuge in the heart of La Rioja

Surrounded by mountains, pine forests and tranquil waters, El Rasillo de Cameros stands out as one of the most beautiful and authentic villages in the Rioja mountains. Located in the region of Camero Nuevo, more than 1,100 metres above sea level and about 48 kilometres from Logroño, this small municipality is the gateway to a territory where time seems to stand still and where nature sets the pace of each day. With just 150 inhabitants, El Rasillo combines history, tradition and rural tourism in a privileged setting next to the González Lacasa Reservoir, one of the most spectacular spots in La Rioja.

Origins and historical evolution

To understand the resilience of El Rasillo, it is essential to look back, far beyond its consolidation as a town. Archaeological data tells us of a remarkably ancient human presence. At sites such as Peña de las Tres Marías, stone tools from the Bronze Age have been recovered, suggesting that the advantages of the enclave were appreciated by the first cultures of the peninsula. The mark left by Rome is also indelible, with the discovery of two altars and a funerary stele with busts, remains that confirm its importance in the road and social network of the Empire.

The first written mention, however, dates back to the year 997, an old parchment that hints at an early foundation. But it is the 12th century that provides the most significant documents: in 1155, King Sancho III and Doña Blanca donated the Hermitage of San Mamés to the Bishop of Calahorra, an act that gave El Rasillo early religious and territorial importance, even when it was still a village under the jurisdiction of Ortigosa.

For centuries, El Rasillo was a hamlet of Ortigosa de Cameros, with which it shared territory, roads and pastures. In 1817, during the reign of Ferdinand VII, the residents managed to establish themselves as an independent town, after paying 12,500 reales to the council of Ortigosa. This event, celebrated with pride for generations, marked the beginning of its modern history and the strengthening of its mountain identity.

In the 18th century, the municipality joined the Royal Economic Society of La Rioja, one of the societies of friends of the country created during the Enlightenment to promote progress and education. Later, in 1833, it became part of the new province of Logroño (now La Rioja) within the judicial district of Torrecilla en Cameros.

Heritage and places steeped in history

Strolling through El Rasillo is like travelling back in time. The town centre preserves the traditional architecture of the Cameros region, with stone houses, wooden doors studded with nails and flower-filled balconies. Many date back to the 18th century and are grouped around the town square, where an imposing centenary elm tree stands out, over four hundred years old and one of the few in Spain to have survived Dutch elm disease. This tree, a symbol of the municipality, is a meeting point and a source of pride for the people of El Rasillo.

Among the religious buildings, two temples of great historical and artistic value stand out:

• Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de las Eras: built in the 17th century on the site of a previous 16th-century temple, it has a single nave with a rectangular chancel, transept and tower. Inside, the 18th-century Rococo altarpiece stands out, an artistic gem that adds elegance to the whole.

• San Mamés Chapel: located on the outskirts of the village, this is a Romanesque temple dating from the 12th century. It was rebuilt in the 19th century, respecting its original layout and some elements of the elevation. Inside, there is a small Baroque altarpiece with an image of the saint, patron of the municipality.

A few steps from the pelota court is the Victoriano Labiano Ethnological Museum, housed in the old schools. This space pays tribute to rural life in Cameros, with a collection of tools, objects and artistic pieces that trace the history of the area from the Celtiberian period to the 20th century. The same building also houses the public library and the retirement home.

Another unique spot is the old wash house, renovated in 2007, which recalls the days when the women of the village would gather there to wash clothes and share stories.

Economic Metamorphosis: From Sheep to Lake

For centuries, the economy of El Rasillo was synonymous with livestock farming. Its location in the Sierra de Cameros gave it a centuries-old pastoral vocation, with intense transhumance activity which, in the 19th century, moved flocks of up to 16,000 head of sheep to the pastures of Extremadura. Livestock, including sheep, horses and cattle, was the economic engine, complemented by vegetable gardens that supplied the community with cereals, potatoes and vegetables.

Today, this economic landscape has undergone a profound metamorphosis. Although livestock farming and subsistence agriculture (limited to family vegetable gardens) persist, the balance has shifted dramatically towards the service sector and tourism.

The key to this transformation is not to be found in the cultivation of vines, which are absent at these high altitudes, but in the imposing presence of the González Lacasa Reservoir.

The González Lacasa Reservoir, the blue soul of El Rasillo

If there is one place that defines the character of El Rasillo, it is undoubtedly the González Lacasa Reservoir, also known as the El Rasillo Reservoir. Just two kilometres from the town centre, this reservoir is the epicentre of leisure and social life in the municipality, especially during the summer months. Fed by the Arroyo de San Mamés stream, it is the new economic and leisure hub of El Rasillo. This body of fresh water has rewritten the destiny of the municipality, turning it into an unexpected centre for water sports in the heart of the mountains.

The El Rasillo Yacht Club offers a wide range of activities: dinghy sailing, canoeing, paddle surfing, windsurfing and boat trips. Its facilities include a restaurant, terrace, solarium, changing rooms, showers, jetty and a diving platform. During the summer weekends, the atmosphere is full of life with visitors from all over La Rioja and neighbouring provinces.

Every year since the 1990s, the reservoir has hosted the Bandera de La Rioja, a rowing competition unique in Spain because it is held in fresh water. This event, which takes place at the end of June, brings together teams from all over the north of the peninsula and adds a maritime touch to the heart of the mountains.

In addition, the reservoir is surrounded by recreational areas, hiking trails and swimming areas, making it an ideal place for both relaxation and adventure. A footpath connects the village to the yacht club, a one-kilometre route that runs through pine forests and crosses the stream via a wooden footbridge. Perfect for walking, cycling or simply enjoying the surroundings.

Nature, hiking and adventure

El Rasillo’s location in the heart of the Sierra de Cameros makes it a paradise for lovers of hiking, climbing and wildlife watching. The area around the town is covered with pine, beech and oak forests where you can spot deer, roe deer, wild boar and foxes, especially at dawn.

Among the most popular routes are the Senda de las Cascadas (Waterfall Trail), ideal for families, and the trails to the Majada de los Acebos and the Alto del Agenzana, from where you can enjoy magnificent views of the valleys. In nearby Peña Zapatero, climbing enthusiasts will find several routes of different levels.

During autumn, the area is filled with colour and aromas with the mycology season. The Cameros mountains are known for their abundance of mushrooms, including milk caps, black mushrooms and perrochicos, which are highly prized in local cuisine.

A few kilometres away, the Caves of Ortigosa de Cameros offer a fascinating experience for geology lovers. Their stalactites and stalagmites, illuminated naturally, form an underground landscape of great beauty.

Life, festivals and traditions

El Rasillo maintains an intense social life, marked by its patron saint festivals and mountain customs. On 15 May, San Isidro, patron saint of farmers, is celebrated; on 29 June, San Pedro; and from 7 to 9 August, the festivities in honour of San Mamés, patron saint of the village, take place, with processions, music and a festive atmosphere that brings together locals and visitors. On 15 August, homage is paid to the Virgen de las Eras, whose image gives its name to the parish church.

One of the most special events on the calendar is the Night of Candles, held on the last weekend of July. During this magical night, the streets of the village are lit up with thousands of candles placed on balconies and windows, creating a dreamlike atmosphere that transforms El Rasillo into a scene of light and silence.

Also noteworthy is the ‘Luces, Cameros, Acción’ competition, an audiovisual festival that turns the region into a real film set, as well as the summer triathlon, which attracts athletes from all over the region.

Mountain cuisine and wine tourism

The cuisine of El Rasillo preserves all the essence of rural La Rioja. In its restaurants and rural guesthouses, you can sample traditional dishes such as patatas a la riojana (potatoes with wine sauce), trucha al estilo camerano (trout in Cameros style), chuletillas al sarmiento (lamb chops cooked over vine shoots) and migas de pastor (shepherd’s breadcrumbs). There is also no shortage of roast lamb and kid, artisan chorizo and Cameros cheeses, always accompanied by a Rioja wine.

For dessert, there is nothing better than pears in wine or the classic marzipan from Soto. And for those looking for a complete experience, El Rasillo is an excellent starting point for exploring the Rioja Wine Route, visiting wineries or discovering the Monastery Route and the Dinosaur Route, all less than an hour’s drive away.

Rural tourism and accommodation

Rural tourism has established itself as the main economic driver in El Rasillo. The municipality has a dozen country houses and charming accommodations, where stone, wood and views of the mountains create a warm and welcoming atmosphere. It also has bars and restaurants, and during the summer, the terraces facing the reservoir are an ideal meeting point to enjoy the tranquillity and fresh mountain air.

In recent years, the population has stabilised and even grown in the high season, when it exceeds 1,500 temporary inhabitants. Sustainable, quality tourism has revitalised the village without losing its authenticity.

What to see in the surrounding area

If you want to continue exploring La Rioja, we recommend these places that you cannot miss:

• Casalarreina, with its Monastery of La Piedad. 1 hour and 5 minutes away on the N-111 and AP-68 (toll roads).
• Cuzcurrita de Río Tirón, with another castle and charming wineries. 1 hour and 10 minutes via the N-111 and AP-68 (toll roads).
• Villoslada de Cameros: a village nestled in the Sierra Cebollera mountains. 19 minutes via the LR-232 and N-111.
• Alberite: a municipality steeped in history, 7 kilometres from Logroño. 39 minutes via the N-111.
• Sajazarra: recognised as one of Spain’s most beautiful villages. 1 hour and 9 minutes via the N-111 and AP-68 (toll roads).

Tips for visitors

To make the most of your stay in El Rasillo de Cameros, it is best to combine nature, culture and gastronomy. Start the day with a walk around the reservoir, enjoy a picnic by the water and, in the afternoon, head to the El Rasillo viewpoint to watch the sunset over the valley. If the sky is clear, the low light pollution will allow you to observe a sky full of stars.

The best time to visit the village is from spring to autumn, when temperatures are pleasant and outdoor activities are in full swing. In winter, snow often covers the peaks, offering a fairytale landscape, although some routes may be limited.

Always wear comfortable footwear and warm clothing at night, and if you plan to swim or do water sports, don’t forget your swimsuit and sunscreen.

A place to fall in love with

From the Romanesque church of San Mamés to the Rococo altarpiece of Nuestra Señora de las Eras; from the immensity of the hundred-year-old elm tree to the adrenaline rush of a rowing regatta on the reservoir; El Rasillo offers a fascinating contrast that encapsulates the rugged beauty of Camero Nuevo and the unmistakable hospitality of La Rioja. It is a destination for historians, sports enthusiasts and those seeking peace and quiet. It is, in short, one of those ‘charming villages’ that deserve to be visited and, above all, experienced.

Whether for a weekend getaway, a family holiday or a romantic escape, El Rasillo awaits you with open arms, as only mountain villages know how to do: with calm, authenticity and the soul of La Rioja.

Photo Credits

Below are the photo credits in order of appearance. Royalty-free photos will not be listed below:

• Cover Image: Rowanwindwhistler, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Rowanwindwhistler, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• diego xuan, via wikiloc.com
• Rowanwindwhistler, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• MicoMoncalvillo, via micomoncalvillo.com
• MicoMoncalvillo, via micomoncalvillo.com
• La Rioja Turismo, via lariojaturismo.com
• Rowanwindwhistler, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Artistosteles, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Artistosteles, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Artistosteles, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Luis Javier Modino Martinez, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• LBM1948, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Rowanwindwhistler, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• LBM1948, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Luis Rogelio HM, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Luis Javier Modino Martinez, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Rowanwindwhistler, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Rowanwindwhistler, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Rowanwindwhistler, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Artistosteles, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Rowanwindwhistler, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons