El Grao de Castellón: the gateway to the sea from La Plana

El Grao de Castellón, or Grau de Castelló in Valencian, is the seafaring soul of the capital of La Plana. Just four kilometres from the city centre, this coastal district represents the link between the city and the Mediterranean. Its port, beaches and fishing character make it one of the most unique enclaves on the Costa del Azahar, a place where history, nature and the sea intertwine in perfect harmony.

With more than 15,000 inhabitants, El Grao is much more than a maritime neighbourhood: it is a community with its own identity, forged between nets, waves and sand. From its promenade to the Pinar park, every corner retains that Mediterranean spirit that combines seafaring tradition, culture and leisure.

The geographical uniqueness of El Grao is highlighted by a cartographic detail of global significance: it is within its boundaries, in the heart of the Marjalería, that the 40∘ North parallel and the 0∘ Greenwich meridian intersect. This imaginary intersection, a point of planetary convergence, gives the place a significance that transcends the local. Just 30 nautical miles away is the Columbretes archipelago, a volcanic group of incalculable ecological value, declared a Marine Reserve in 1990 and a Nature Reserve in 1994, to which Grao serves as an access dock.

Origins linked to the sea

The origins of El Grao date back to the Middle Ages, when James I of Aragon conquered the old Castell Vell and moved the town to its current location. Even then, the first commercial exchanges by sea were beginning, although human roots in the area are much older. Sites such as Pujol de Gasset, inhabited from prehistoric times to the early Middle Ages, or the remains found next to the Barrassota fountain, in the district of Fadrell, bear witness to a continuous presence throughout the centuries.

However, the real boost for Grao came in the 19th century, when plans began to build the Port of Castellón, which was finally inaugurated in 1905. From then on, the seaside settlement came to life: fishermen, traders and sailors built their houses by the Mediterranean, shaping the urban centre we know today.

The 20th century marked a new transformation with the emergence of the petrochemical industry in the 1970s. The landscape became partially industrialised, but without losing its seafaring essence or its vocation of openness to the sea.

A territory between the orchards and the Mediterranean

The municipal area of Castellón is organised into five traditional landscape units: the mountains, the drylands, the orchards, the marshlands and the coastline. El Grao and its surroundings are located precisely between the latter two, in that transitional strip where the sea and the land are in constant dialogue.

The Marjalería: the land of water

The Marjalería stretches from the Camino de la Donación to the Mediterranean, forming a plain of wet soils that for centuries was used for rice cultivation. Over time, much of this space was drained and transformed into orchards or residential areas. Today, two main areas can be distinguished:

• The huerta de marjal, the first to be drained, which took advantage of the surplus water from the inland huerta.
• The Coto Arrocero, drained in 1967 after failed attempts to revive rice cultivation.

Despite its natural beauty, the Marjalería has suffered from the proliferation of irregular single-family homes in recent decades, a phenomenon that has altered part of the original landscape. However, it remains a unique environment, where water, irrigation channels and fields coexist with the memory of its agricultural past.

The coastline: dunes, pine forests and port

The Castellón coastline has always been narrow, limited by a strip of dunes and pine forests that separated the sea from the Marjalería. The construction of the port changed the marine dynamics, creating new land to the north of the Levante pier and causing the disappearance of old beaches to the south. Even so, the Pinar del Grao managed to remain almost intact and is now one of the green lungs most loved by the people of Castellón.

Natural spaces and protected areas

Despite urban and industrial development, the Grao district maintains green lungs and protected spaces that resist the advance of concrete and industry.

Molí de la Font

Located between the orchards and the marshland, the Molí de la Font is home to the Font de la Reina spring. In its surroundings, covering just 2,350 m², there is a mixed vegetation of dryland trees and species typical of wetlands. The nearby cave is a refuge for various species of bats, which is why it was declared a Site of Local Relevance (BRL) in 2021.

Parque del Pinar

The remains of the large pine forest that separated the sea from the Marjalería. The Parque del Pinar, covering more than 120,000 m², is the most popular green space in Grao. It occupies what was once a large pine forest that separated the sea from the Marjalería. Today it offers sports areas, picnic areas, playgrounds, a nine-hole golf course and a summer swimming pool. Its declaration as a Site of Local Relevance in 2021 underlines its historical and social value. It is also the epicentre of events such as the Harley-Davidson Big Twin rally, one of the most important in the country, which has been held annually since 1988.

Meridian Park

In the heart of the Marjalería is the Meridian Park, a symbolic space that marks the exact point where the Greenwich meridian and the 40th parallel north intersect. Created in 2002, it is a privileged spot for bird watching and enjoying the marshland landscape among almond trees, elms, laurels and willows.

The beaches of El Grao

The coastline of Castellón stretches for around 8.6 kilometres, although only half of it remains in its natural state due to the expansion of the port and the Serrallo industrial estate. To the north of the port facilities are three wide beaches that have been awarded Blue Flags year after year and multiple quality certifications:

Playa del Pinar

The best known and most popular, with a length of 1.8 kilometres and an average width of 90 metres. Its main attraction is the Parque Litoral, an extensive artificial dune cordon with more than 1,700 trees and native species. This artificial dune cordon, planted with palm trees and shrubs, is integrated with a long promenade and recreational areas. Nearby are the Planetarium, the Javier Marquina football pitches and the entrance to the Parque del Pinar.

Gurugú Beach

Located north of El Pinar, this 1-kilometre beach combines a relaxed and sporty atmosphere. In summer, the beach bars, beach volleyball courts and water sports create a young and lively atmosphere. It also has a Blue Flag and quality services.

Serradal Beach

Quieter and more natural, Serradal stretches to the border with Benicàssim. 1.7 kilometres long, it is a favourite with those seeking a wilder and more environmentally friendly setting. Its micro-reserve of flora and protected dune system are examples of sustainability on the Castellón coast.

The port: the heart of the maritime district

The Port of Castellón is the true hub of El Grao. Its history has shaped the economic and social development of the district. Since its opening at the beginning of the 20th century, it has been a driving force for trade and modernisation, but also a meeting place and leisure area for the public.

The Plaza del Mar, inaugurated in 1995, symbolises the opening of the port to the city. Surrounding it are the Edificio Moruno, the Real Club Náutico, restaurants, terraces and gardens. In 2003, the Puerto Azahar complex was added, with restaurants, pubs and multiplex cinemas, representing the ultimate in nightlife and gastronomy in El Grao, although it closed between 2019 and 2020, symbolising the volatility of port leisure projects.

Nearby, the Jardín del Puerto, known as els Jardinets, dates back to the 1930s. This 11,050 m2 space suffered significant degradation due to the neighbouring chemical industry, a clear example of the collision between leisure and production. Its rehabilitation, after the land was transferred to the city council, has sought to restore it to its former glory.

Another emblematic space is the Parque de la Panderola, built on the former depot of the legendary tram known as the Panderola. Remodelled in 2020, its main attraction is a restored locomotive and carriage from this narrow-gauge railway, a tribute to the district’s industrial and transport heritage.

Maritime heritage and culture

El Grao preserves an interesting architectural and cultural heritage that reflects its historical evolution.

• Church of San Pedro Apóstol (above in the photo): rebuilt after the Civil War by Vicente Traver Tomás (1946-1948), it combines Romanesque, Gothic and Valencian Baroque styles.
• Ermita de Sant Francesc de la Font: a small 18th-century temple with Baroque frescoes and a charming rural simplicity.
• Castellón Planetarium (below in the photo): opened in 1991, with its unmistakable white dome, it goes beyond astronomical projections: it houses the Columbretes Islands Interpretation Centre and is a reference point for amateur astronomers nationwide.

Grao festivals and traditions

The cultural life of Grao vibrates to the rhythm of its popular festivals, many of which are linked to the sea and fishing traditions.

• San Pedro Festival: This is the most iconic festival in the maritime district. It is celebrated around 29 June, the patron saint’s day of fishermen, with maritime processions, bullfighting events, parades and the popular torrà de la sardina (burning of the sardine). In 2020, it was declared a Festival of Regional Tourist Interest.
• Grao Carnival: One of the liveliest in the province, it has been celebrated since 1990 with parades, costumes and the traditional burial of the sardine. For three days, colour and music fill the streets of the district.
• Escala a Castelló: An annual event that turns the port into a historical stage. Replicas of ancient ships, training ships and schooners dock at the quays to be visited by the public. Parades, craft markets and gastronomic activities complete the experience.
• Som Festival: During the summer months, the port’s quay hosts this music festival with national and international artists, comedians and outdoor shows. It is one of the most eagerly awaited cultural events of the summer in Castellón.

Seafood cuisine

The cuisine of El Grao is, by necessity, a symphony of flavours from the sea. The El Grao fish market, with 3,200 m2 and a production of up to 100 tonnes of fresh fish and seafood per day, is the driving force behind this culinary tradition. The restaurants in the area offer an unrivalled selection: rice dishes are the absolute stars of the show: paella, arroz a banda, caldoso or baked, not to mention fideuà (made with fish stock and thin noodles) are a must.

Seafood tapas, such as baby squid, steamed rock mussels, clams and anchovies, are the essential appetiser. Many establishments maintain traditional recipes passed down from generation to generation, a true tribute to the flavour of the sea.

El Grao, tourism and connection with Castellón

El Grao combines the essence of fishing with a modern and varied tourist offer. The Plaza del Mar is home to hotels, shops, pubs and terraces overlooking the port. From there, boat trips depart for the Columbretes Islands, a volcanic archipelago declared a nature and marine reserve, located 30 nautical miles away.

Sports enthusiasts will find the perfect setting here for cycling, coastal hiking and water sports. In addition, the accessible beaches, promenades and parks make El Grao a pleasant family destination all year round.

The wide avenues, Avenida del Mar and Hermanos Bou, which connect the centre of Castellón with El Grao, do so in a multimodal way, including cycle lanes that encourage walking or cycling, allowing direct immersion in the atmosphere of the Plaza del Mar and the Real Club Náutico.

Add to your map

Apart from El Grao and Castellón de la Plana, here are some other places we have on our map in case you want to include them in your trip:

• Sant Mateu: its historic centre will transport you straight back to the Middle Ages. 58 minutes away via the CV-10 motorway.
• Chilches (Xilxes): this destination surprises visitors with its combination of sea, nature, tradition and culture. 34 minutes away on the AP-7.

Risks and the Environmental Cost of Proximity

Coexisting with industrial infrastructure and a sensitive natural environment imposes a series of environmental risks on El Grao that The Kompasse cannot ignore. The maritime district is, by nature, a high-risk area on multiple fronts.

• Flooding: La Marjalerıˊa and parts of El Grao are classified as high-frequency flood zones due to the accumulation of runoff from the Seco River and the Fraga ravine, torrential rains and sea storms.
• Air pollution: Although the risk has been significantly reduced thanks to improvement plans and purification systems (after being the most polluted area in the Valencian Community in 2006), the presence of the petrochemical cluster and the intensity of road traffic transporting dangerous goods remain latent risk factors.
• Chemical and Major Accident Risk: The Serrallo industrial estate and the port are areas with a high risk of accidents involving hazardous substances. The late approval of a prevention, warning and evacuation plan in 2020, with the first drill only taking place in 2018, highlights a historical lack of institutional preparedness in the face of the seriousness of this risk.
• Water and Pest Risk: The quality of groundwater bodies is considered poor due to marine intrusion and nitrate concentration. Although bathing water quality has improved, occasional uncontrolled discharges continue to cause partial closures. Added to this is the endemic proliferation of mosquitoes (including the invasive tiger mosquito species), a recurring problem in the marshland area that impacts public health and tourism.
• Uncontrolled Landfills: The proliferation of illegal landfills in rural and hard-to-reach areas is a growing problem that generates neighbourhood complaints about unsanitary conditions and environmental degradation.

El Grao today: Where Geography Yields to Human Desire

El Grao de Castellón is, ultimately, a case study of Spanish coastal modernity. It is a place where the natural beauty of Blue Flag beaches and the ecological richness of the Marjalerıˊa and the Planetarium coexist just a few metres away from the risks inherent in one of the largest industrial and logistical concentrations in the Mediterranean. It is a district of sharp contrasts: the calm of its lighthouse and the hustle and bustle of its fish market; the glorious past of El Pinar and the uncertain future of an environment in constant dispute between uncontrolled urban development and necessary environmental protection.

For The Kompasse observer, Grao is not just a destination; it is a microcosm of resilience, a port that has managed to reinvent itself from medieval trade to petrochemicals, and which now strives to balance its industrial heritage with its tourist and maritime vocation. It is a metaphor for the Valencian coast: vibrant, delightful and dangerously exposed.

Photo Credits

Below are the photo credits in order of appearance. Royalty-free photos will not be listed below:

• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Castellón Turismo, via castellonturismo.com
• Castellón Turismo, via castellonturismo.com
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Castellón Turismo, via castellonturismo.com
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Castellónenred, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Instituto Geográfico Nacional (archived version), CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• velomartinez, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Aureliano from Castellón, España, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Juan Emilio Prades Bel, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
• velomartinez, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons