Santa Cristina de Aro, Girona: what to see and do in this unique corner of the Baix Empordà
The Costa Brava, that land of promise and contrasts, is known for its dreamy coves and untamed character. But what if I told you that the heart of this region doesn’t beat on the seashore, but a few kilometres inland? Although it may seem contradictory, the history and essence of the Costa Brava are hidden in places like Santa Cristina d’Aro, a municipality that is much more than just a dot on the map.
Here, the sound of the waves becomes the song of the wind among pine, oak and cork trees. Instead of sand, you have the fertile land of the Vall d’Aro and the rugged character of the Les Gavarres and L’Ardenya massifs. This is not your typical beach destination, it is a refuge for those seeking tranquillity, history and nature in its purest form. If you are attracted by the idea of discovering a place where magic, literature and the legacy of our ancestors intertwine, read on.
A municipality between mountains and sea
Santa Cristina de Aro (in Catalan and officially Santa Cristina d’Aro) is one of those places that surprises travellers looking for more than just beaches on the Costa Brava. Located in the heart of the Baix Empordà, between the Les Gavarres and Ardenya-Cadiretes mountain ranges, it offers a privileged natural environment, steeped in history and with an interesting balance between sea, mountains and heritage. Although it is an inland municipality, it has some of the wildest and least known coves on the Costa Brava, while also preserving megalithic remains, Romanesque churches, literary trails and a surprising cultural tradition.
The municipal area of Santa Cristina d’Aro extends across the Vall d’Aro valley, bordered to the north by Les Gavarres and to the south by the Ardenya mountain range. Its main centres are Santa Cristina, Romanyà de la Selva, Solius and Bell-lloc, as well as small housing developments and scattered farmhouses that give it the feel of a quiet, green countryside. The natural wealth of the environment is evident: pine, holm oak and cork oak forests cover much of the landscape, while agricultural fields and some small industries complete the local economy. However, the main activity is tourism, which is concentrated in the summer thanks to its beaches, routes and festivities.
A brief historical note
Although the municipality was officially founded in 1808, when it separated from Castell d’Aro, human presence in the area dates back much further. In fact, Santa Cristina is considered megalithic land, as its mountains preserve dolmens, menhirs and archaeological remains that speak of prehistoric settlements. The municipality is a veritable open-air museum, with treasures such as the dolmen of Cova d’en Daina in Romanyà and the menhir of Creu d’en Barraquer. They are proof that, long before the first medieval castles were built, this land was already inhabited.
But history does not stop at prehistoric stones. The heritage of Santa Cristina spans centuries. During Romanisation, there was also activity in the area, as evidenced by the small early Christian chapel from the 6th century, probably linked to a Roman villa. Later, in the Middle Ages, parish centres and castles emerged, such as Solius, of which only ruins remain today. All of this forms a historical mosaic that travellers can discover step by step.
Magical and dreamlike corners
The beauty of Santa Cristina d’Aro is not limited to its historical legacy. It is a place of contrasts where the sacred and the profane coexist in harmony. The tranquillity of the Monastery of Solius is a clear example. Founded in 1967, this corner of Cistercian peace is famous for its collection of dioramas, the work of Brother Gilbert Galceran. There are 39 miniatures that, with astonishing precision, tell stories of religious life. It is a place that invites introspection.
But if you prefer fantasy to contemplation, the Great Museum of Magic ‘La Casa Mágica’ is a must-see. Here, curiosity and illusion take centre stage. It is a space dedicated to magic and zarzuela, with internationally recognised private collections that will make you question what you see. In the same town, you can go from the solemnity of the monastery to the surprise of magic, which shows the unique character of this place.
Beaches and coves of Santa Cristina d’Aro: A Secret and Exclusive Coastline
Santa Cristina d’Aro may be inland, but its small stretch of coastline is one of its best-kept secrets. With a relatively short coastline, the municipality hides coves that are truly wonderful:
- Cala Canyet: surrounded by pine trees and cliffs, it stands out for its crystal-clear waters and the picturesque coastal path that connects it to other nearby coves.
- Cala del Senyor Ramon: a wide, nudist beach nestled between mountains and considered one of the most unspoilt in the area.
- Cala Vallpresona: accessible only on foot or by boat, this is an isolated cove, ideal for those seeking tranquillity in a completely natural environment.
These are wild beaches that are difficult to access, which has kept them away from mass tourism. Here, the water is crystal clear and the surroundings are unspoilt, allowing you to enjoy the sea in an atmosphere of total tranquillity. Don’t miss them, the walk to get there is well worth it. These three gems make Santa Cristina a different kind of coastal destination, where the sea can be enjoyed in a more intimate and authentic way.
Cultural and historical heritage
The heritage of Santa Cristina d’Aro is very varied and ranges from prehistoric remains to contemporary monuments of great interest:
- Dolmen de la Cova d’en Daina: an authentic icon of Catalan megalithism, located in Romanyà de la Selva.
- Menhirs and caves: such as the menhir of Creu d’en Barraquer or the caves of Moros and Sa Tuna, which complete the archaeological map.
- Church of Sant Martí de Romanyà: a Romanesque gem, built between the 10th and 11th centuries, in a charming rural setting.
- Parish church of Santa Cristina: with elements dating from the 12th to the 18th centuries and a small early Christian chapel attached.
- Cistercian monastery of Santa Maria de Solius: founded in 1967 by monks from Poblet, it has become a spiritual and cultural landmark in the area.
- Dioramas of Solius: a unique collection of 39 miniature scenes created by Brother Gilbert Galceran, illustrating biblical passages and scenes from everyday life.
- Old Carrilet station: now converted into a tourist office, it preserves the memory of the train that linked Sant Feliu de Guíxols with Girona.
Nature in Motion
Although it sounds cliché, the best way to explore Santa Cristina d’Aro is on foot or by bicycle. The network of trails and greenways is a constant invitation to adventure. The Greenway is the jewel in the crown, a cycle route that follows the old railway line that connected Sant Feliu de Guíxols with Girona. Cycling along this path, you enter a landscape of fields and forests, far from the hustle and bustle of the coast.
For hiking enthusiasts, there are options to suit all tastes. You can follow in the footsteps of the writer Mercè Rodoreda on the route that links her house in Romanyà with the landscapes that inspired her work. Or if you are looking for something more adventurous, the route that takes you to the Gorges de Salenys will allow you to discover a river paradise with waterfalls and natural pools. Nature is another character here, with spots such as Font Picant, a ferruginous water spring that is ideal for a restorative break. Among the most recommended options:
- Vía Verde del Carrilet: a cycle and pedestrian route that follows the old narrow-gauge railway line. It connects Sant Feliu de Guíxols with Girona, crossing the Vall d’Aro.
- Rodoreda – Romanyà Route: a literary itinerary that takes you through the landscapes that inspired the writer Mercè Rodoreda, who spent her last years in Romanyà de la Selva, where she is also buried.
- Balcar Route: an accessible walk along the Ridaura River, with shaded areas and natural surroundings ideal for family walks.
- Gorges de Salenys Natural Area: a spectacular route between rocky walls, natural springs and wooden walkways.
- Dolmens and Menhirs Route: a journey into the prehistoric past of the region, with signage and interpretive information.
Gastronomy
The local cuisine is based on products from the sea and the mountains, with a special focus on mushrooms, to which a gastronomic cycle of mycological workshops is dedicated between October and November. During these weeks, restaurants and bars in the municipality offer menus and tapas centred on this versatile ingredient. Olive oil, cured meats and garden produce complete an authentic gastronomic offering that reflects the Empordà tradition.
Festivals
Festivals are another of Santa Cristina d’Aro’s attractions:
- Fiesta Mayor (24th July): includes concerts, family activities and the traditional Carrera Popular (fun run).
- Carnival of Friendship: one of the liveliest in the region, with parades and floats.
- Local festivals: in Solius (May), Bell-lloc (15 August) and Romanyà (September).
These celebrations allow you to get to know local life and enjoy the hospitality of its inhabitants.
Climate and best time to visit
The climate is temperate Mediterranean, with mild winters and warm summers. In spring and autumn, the tramontana wind can blow strongly, while summer is the driest season.
- Summer: ideal for enjoying the coves.
- Autumn: perfect for hiking and mushroom picking.
- Spring: pleasant weather for cultural and nature excursions.
Where to stay in Santa Cristina d’Aro
Although Santa Cristina d’Aro is a quiet town, it has several accommodation options to suit different types of travellers. From those seeking the comfort of well-equipped holiday apartments to those who prefer the natural experience of a campsite surrounded by nature, not to mention those who opt for the simplicity and friendliness of a family-run guesthouse.
Here are three ideal suggestions:
🏠 Holiday apartments: perfect for those travelling with family or in a group who want to have their own kitchen and all the comforts of home. A practical option for organising your trips along the Costa Brava at your own pace.
⛺ Campsite surrounded by nature: the best option if you fancy sleeping under the pine trees, with full facilities, a swimming pool and activities for all ages. Ideal for enjoying the natural environment without sacrificing comfort.
🛏️ Charming guesthouse: if you are looking for a more intimate and friendly atmosphere, this type of accommodation allows you to experience local hospitality, with comfortable rooms and personalised service that makes all the difference.
Surroundings and excursions
Santa Cristina de Aro enjoys a strategic location, close to places of great interest on the Costa Brava and in the Girona hinterland:
- Castell d’Aro and the Dofí reservoir.
- Sant Feliu de Guíxols, with its Benedictine monastery and the Museu d’Història de la Joguina (Toy History Museum).
- Llagostera, with its Museu del Dolmen (Dolmen Museum).
- Platja d’Aro, for those looking for nightlife and shopping.
All this makes Santa Cristina an excellent base for exploring the region.
Essential sights in Santa Cristina d’Aro
- Swim at Cala Canyet or the wild Cala Vallpresona.
- Cycle along the Carrilet Greenway.
- Admire the dolmen at Cova d’en Daina.
- Visit the church of Sant Martí de Romanyà and the monastery of Solius.
- Discover the Great Museum of Magic.
- Try local dishes at the mushroom festival.
Santa Cristina d’Aro: Beyond the Costa Brava
Santa Cristina d’Aro is much more than just a municipality in Baix Empordà. It is a crossroads between nature, history and culture, with wild beaches far from the crowds, an archaeological legacy unique in Catalonia and a cultural offering that surprises travellers. Whether for a day trip, a quiet family holiday or as a base for exploring the Costa Brava, this corner invites you to discover a different, authentic Costa Brava with soul.
If you are visiting the Costa Brava, we recommend that you come as well equipped as possible. Here is a list of items that can help you make the most of your adventure:
- Stainless Steel Thermal Water Bottle
- Mini Instax Instant Camera
- Unisex Sunglasses
- Lightweight Backpack with Hydration Bag
- Breathable Raincoat
- Waterproof Hiking Boots
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